By examining various historical and cultural practices in regards to fashion, textiles, and fabric-making, Chloe discusses the different ways fiber arts express community and identity in material or design choices.
We marvel at the beauty of architecture – admiring its form, capturing it through the camera, celebrating its elegance. But how often do we scrutinize its origins? In my Modern Architecture class this semester, we read Art Nouveau, Art of Darkness: African Lineages of Belgian Modernism by Debora L. Silverman. At the heart is a single, fluid line – one that defies conventions, bends cultural norms, and captures motion suspended in time. Enter the whiplash: the iconic, serpentine curve that danced its way through the Art Nouveau movement, twisting its influence into everything from architecture to jewelry. But beneath its elegant sway lies a world of complexity—a tangled web of cultural symbolism, colonial encounters, and aesthetic rebellion. The whiplash motif is not merely a graceful curve; it is a visual rupture; a revolution.
In her three-part series, she argues that Belgian Art Nouveau, particularly the work of architects like Henry van de Velde, was deeply influenced by the colonial context of Belgium's exploitation of the Congo. Silverman argues the distinctive ‘whiplash motif’ of Art Nouveau, was directly inspired by and carries a hidden history of colonial violence in the Congo: the rubber vines found in the forest and the whip (or chicotte) used for forced labor. King Leopold II’s establishment of a lucrative, yet devastatingly exploitative rubber industry in the Congo Free State involved imposing brutal quotas on the local population. The extraction process required Congolese workers to coat themselves in latex, which painfully adhered to their skin, while severe punishments, such as limb amputations, were meted out to those who failed to meet quotas. This context lends the motif a dual meaning: referencing both the rubber plant and the exploitation associated with its extraction. (Boundless). This context gives the motif a dual meaning: it references the rubber plant itself and the exploitation associated with its extraction.
However, Silverman does not acknowledge other possible sources of inspiration. For instance, the botanical influences in Art Nouveau are apparent and undisputed. The botanical elements evident in Art Nouveau are unmistakable, as demonstrated in works like Victor Horta’s Hotel Tassel, where greenhouse architecture was transformed into a domestic space. “Discard the flowers and the leaves, and take the stem,” Horta famously declared, emphasizing the elegance of simplified forms. Iwan Straven, in his interview with Horta for Design Miami, says Horta “was both a traditionalist and the inventor of a paradigm-shifting visual language.” He was the son of a Spanish shoemaker and a Flemish mother – he reconciled industrial brutality and symbolist craftsmanship . Silverman acknowledges the ambiguity surrounding the exact sources of Belgian Art Nouveau’s stylistic innovations but suggests that the colonial influence remains an underexplored narrative in the movement’s history.
The influence of the whiplash motif can be traced beyond architecture, finding its resonance in performance and illustration. Loie Fuller, an American dancer renowned for her avant-garde performances in Paris during the 1890s, became synonymous with the fluidity of Art Nouveau. Fuller’s dances were characterized by her use of flowing costumes and colored stage lighting, which created ethereal patterns and dynamic motion on stage. Her serpentine dance visually embodied the “whiplash” lines of Art Nouveau and became very culturally significant, celebrated in posters, decorative objects, illustrations and evidently, also architecture.
Aubrey Beardsley, a British illustrator, similarly propelled the whiplash and rocketed to fame when he produced drawings for Oscar Wilde's play Salome. His risqué subject and graceful drawings marked the beginning of a new era in the arts, believed to be the first works in a British Art Nouveau style (Aubrey Beardsley). Beardsley drew the characters with Medusa-like tendrils, surrounded by abstract organic forms and creeping whiplash lines. Arguably, his art brought prominence to the ‘whiplash’ and its associations with Art Nouveau.
Some historians assert that the whiplash motif also draws strong inspiration from East Asian art, particularly Japanese aesthetics and calligraphy. A wave of Japonisme, where Japanese art became wildly popular in the West as a result of growing global trade, swept through Europe in the 1890s and was influential on many artists with its organic forms, references to the natural world, and clear designs that contrasted strongly with the reigning taste. The flat-perspective and strong colors of Japanese woodcuts, especially those of Katsushika Hokusai can find traces of themselves in Art Nouveau. Iwan Strauven suggests that while there is no evidence that Victor Horta practiced Japanese calligraphy, he was deeply inspired by its aesthetic. The fluidity of Horta’s iron railings in projects like Hotel Solvay and Hotel Tassel bears a striking resemblance to the continuous, unbroken strokes that characterize Shodo, the Japanese art of calligraphy.
While Silverman’s essay is expansive and meticulously researched, this analysis focuses on only one of several motifs she examines. A more comprehensive study would explore the broader spectrum of stylistic influences that shaped the Art Nouveau movement. Numerous formal elements – such as the fluidity of linework and the interplay between ornamentation and structure – are often attributed to a myriad of origins that extend beyond the colonial context Silverman highlights. While Silverman makes a strong argument, we must keep in mind that people would not want to surround themselves with overt references to a violent past. It is plausible that architects like Horta could have been subconsciously influenced by these historical dynamics, but the importance of artistic intent cannot be overlooked. Without a definitive understanding of the inspirations behind an artist’s work, any interpretation remains speculative. Further research could delve into the nuances of cultural appropriation versus appreciation and consider whether art can serve as a vehicle for advocacy. Additionally, it is important to consider how to curate exhibitions that confront this traumatic history. While Silverman critiques the museum exhibit Memory of the Congo: The Colonial Era for its shortcomings, she does not offer an alternative. Exhibiting such a painful history demands sensitivity and a nuanced approach to avoid sensationalism or retraumatizing the descendants of those affected. A thoughtful call for action in this regard would have elevated her critique and provided a framework for more ethical curatorial practices.
(Cover image: Behr, Art Nouveau, 2024, Behr.com)